Your Amiga (you didn't state what model, but im guessing a A600) is likely the damaged traces up by the leaked caps as the "no red on RGB" also hints at the area surrounding the Sony CXA1145M is damaged, or the chip itself has issues, not uncommon. and there are improved variants that can be fitted. But if the traces are so badly damaged you may have no recourse than to do as i am doing, and get a reproduction board, and move all the Amiga custom chips over to that. I also have a rather minty A2000 but it is not running due to the dreaded battery leakage, it doesn't look bad, and I've removed the battery but the CPU socket had a tiny bit on one corner that had mild corrosion, I'm going to test it with a NOS 68000. if i can get ti to fire up ill be upgrading that with a ECS Chipset, as its an early OCS board.I shall probably take you up on that , I enjoy through hole soldering and have attempted SMD with my heat gun in the past but its like a whole different level of complicated TBH. I shall try and get the keyboard fault traced myself but watch this space and I shall likely be back in touch after failing to diagnose the issue. I do have a ZX 48K that I recapped but still getting lower ram issues with and have a donor board I was going to swap out the IC8 chip which didn't look like it was sitting right but that's just a hunch. and lastly, I have an Amiga that I got that was in really bad condition, I repaired 7 bad/missing pads/ traces and recapped it, and think I made a semi decent attempt for a beginner at doing, it's now back working, composite signal is good, the rgb port though is not showing a red signal and the sound is very quiet. I'm sure these are either faulty traces that I haven't found yet or the SMD opamp and surrounding chips is rotted so badly with the leaked capacitors. Anyway I shall be able to PM shortly and can then arrange something.Greetings fellow local, well Im just outside Aberdeen. If you are having trouble fixing it i may be able to help. i have SMD level soldering equipment, oscilloscope and various do-dahs for diagnosing stuff. And am able to flash roms and such like.hobbyist level stuff. but enough to keep my retro collection going.
Thanks for getting in touch.
Your keyboard issues are likely to do with how the rows/columns are laid out, and a trace is damaged so its tracking down the trace, that can be done with a simple multimeter and a continuity test.. if its just the traces, it may even be a damaged wire in the keyboard connector. i guess if one was snapped internally that it would stop a row or column from working. even a dry solder joint on the connector on the board or keyboard side could do that. so reflowing those might help. it really is a case of eliminating stuff.
Statistics: Posted by Cerberus73 — Mon Dec 15, 2025 2:26 pm